Richardson Richardson's blog : China's Best Seamstress: Hundreds of Thousands of Wedding Clothes, Spend Tens of Thousands of Hours!
Original Title: China's Best Seamstress: Hundreds of Thousands of Wedding
Clothes, Spending Tens of Thousands of Hours! Beauty is not only beautiful, but
also because of people "The most beautiful dress in the world is the wedding
dress, and the most beautiful woman in the world is the bride. I think every
Chinese girl can wear a Chinese wedding dress and get married beautifully." She
is called "Chanel of China". She is the royal costume designer of Zhang Ziyi,
Dong Qing and Fan Bingbing. She was the first person Apple CEO Cook met in China
this year. In 2016, she became the first Asian designer to hold a show at
Gaoding Fashion Week in France. She is Guo Pei, the first person in China's
advanced customization. The first time I heard Guo Pei's name was in April this
year. She was named one of Time magazine's 100 most influential people in the
world. Expand the full text At the same time, she was selected by Xi Dada and
Wang Jianlin. And Tu Youyou, who won that Nobel prize last year. Nowadays, Guo
Pei has been struggling in the field of fashion design for more than 30 years.
It is a "living dictionary" to witness the development of modern Chinese
clothing. Give up millions of annual salary to do Chinese design In 1967, Guo
Pei was born in an ordinary family in Beijing. He has not been exposed to
knowledge related to clothing and design since childhood. In 1982, she graduated
from technical secondary school. He was admitted to Beijing Second Light
Industry School. They are the first batch of fashion design students in China.
He became a "tailor" in the eyes of his neighbors. In the environment of the
1980s, Chinese people have no concept of fashion design. Guo Pei became one of
the first people to eat crabs. After graduation, she was assigned to the
designer of the children's clothing factory. From design, assembly line
production to ready-made clothes, Learn and accumulate more professional
knowledge in practice. Guo Pei became a real "tailor". " Every designer is eager
to realize his own design. But many designers can draw it, but they can't do it.
With his own efforts and talent, In 1989, she entered Tianma Fashion, the
earliest fashion company in China. And become the chief designer. At that time,
more than 90% of the company's products were designed by her. It has created a
marketing success of 3.9 billion yuan. Tianma brand has become one of the top
ten brands in China. When her designs hit the market, It can always become a new
fashion trend. Guo Pei was also awarded "Top Ten Designers in China" However,
success did not make her happy. She's not even happy with herself. In those
years, she didn't want to go to the mall. Even if you go, you will bypass the
clothes you designed. In my mind, those designs are not up to my standards. I
always want to pursue a kind of perfection, not for anyone. Just fulfilling one
of my desires as a designer, Make a dress that can't be sold. In the 1990s, Most
of the designs in China are copied from abroad. Simple imitation, mass assembly
line production, It can't be called design at all. One must not be haughty, but
not without haughtiness. Deep in Guo Pei's heart, There was always a voice
reminding her: Why can't we make designs that belong to China? In 1997, Guo Pei
gave up the good "money" of the chief designer. He resigned willfully and
started his own business. He opened his own studio, Rose Square. It has embarked
on its own road of Chinese advanced customization. At Rose Square, The essence
of advanced customization is embodied in the design of excellence in every
detail. Every piece of clothing is tailor-made and tailor-made. To achieve
Chinese dress design, No one knows how difficult the road is. She has to go to
the theatre to watch performances after work. Learn about the costumes on the
stage and collect more images and pictures. When learning to make a real
traditional cheongsam, She bought more than ten antique cheongsams. Take it all
down and study the direction of the warp and weft. Embroidery is the biggest
highlight of Rose Square. For Guo Pei, hardship is not the most difficult. The
most difficult thing is that fewer and fewer people can embroider. Fewer and
fewer people are willing to sink down to learn embroidery. This skill, which has
an ancient history of more than two thousand years, is inherited. It broke her
heart. Embroidery technology has not been widely handed down. In order to be
able to embroider the most beautiful patterns, Better presentation design effect
She can only look for a needle in a haystack to visit these embroidery workers
who have been forgotten and neglected by the times. Heaven pays off. The first
embroiderer in the studio, She found it in the fields in the countryside. In
this way, Guo Pei followed suit. Use the most stupid way to find the second,
third, first.. Up to now, there are 300 skilled embroiderers in her Rose
Workshop. Some things can only be said in one sentence, but it takes a lifetime
to do it. Guo Pei cherishes these embroiderers and gives them five or six times
the salary. For them, there is only one requirement: the heart must be calm.
Embroidery is a lonely skill. If you want to achieve a zero-defect boutique,
Peace of mind is the foundation, but it is also the most difficult. Some
embroidery techniques are complex. Sewing is too thick, the needle is difficult
to penetrate, must rely on pliers and tweezers to pull out. Every stitch, it
pricks the hand.. This is not something that ordinary people can bear and insist
on. "Pursuing beauty and inheriting craftsmanship is actually a belief." It
takes time, patience, and dedication to nurture. Guo Pei and her more than 300
embroiderers, Defending the last pride and dignity of ancient handicraft. In Guo
Pei's private museum in 798 Art District, there is a priceless "advanced
customization". It was made by 100 embroiderers for nearly three months and took
the whole team more than 50000 hours to make. This super luxurious work of art
has also created many digital miracles: 28000 silver buckles embroidered by
human hands, thousands of shafts of European silver thread, and a weight of more
than 200 kilograms. In Guo Pei's private museum in 798 Art District, there is a
priceless "advanced customization". It was made by 100 embroiderers for nearly
three months and took the whole team more than 50000 hours to make. This super
luxurious work of art has also created many digital miracles: 28000 silver
buckles embroidered by human hands, seamstress
measuring tape , thousands of shafts of European silver thread, and a weight
of more than 200 kilograms. Private customization, making clothes for
celebrities On 5 May 2015, The Metropolitan Museum of Art Gala, International
superstar Rihanna (Rihanna) wore Guo Pei's "One Thousand and Two Nights" couture
dress "Rhubarb Robe" on the red carpet of Met 2015. Stunning the entire fashion
world, It received hundreds of millions of hits that day. In fact, among Guo
Pei's clients, More than 1/3 of them are stars at home and abroad. So far, Guo
Pei has designed costumes for the hosts and actors of the Spring Festival Gala
for ten consecutive years. Dong Qing, Zhou Tao, Li Sisi, Song Zuying, Li Yugang
and other Spring Festival Gala costumes are all designed by herself. On the eve
of the 2008 Spring Festival Gala, The editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar took
Zhang Ziyi to Rose Square to find Guo Pei to design the dress. And Zhang Ziyi's
Spring Festival Gala performance "Tian Nu San Hua" shocked the audience! The
audience was full of praise for her dress. It is speculated that it comes from
the hands of international famous teachers and is worth millions. In fact, the
dress was lent by Guo Pei to Zhang Ziyi. Years later, Zhang Ziyi went to the
United States to attend the Grammy Awards Ceremony. At the event, she wore a
short yellow chiffon dress designed by Guo Pei. Zhang Ziyi's dress on that day
attracted considerable media attention. It has won numerous praises. In this
year's star reality show of Hunan Satellite TV, On the stage of "Here We Come",
Guo Pei once again conquered the public's eyes with his design. In July this
year, Guo Pei was invited to hold a show at Gaoding Fashion Week in Paris. He
became the first Chinese designer to hold a personal show here. With the theme
of "Meet", Clothing absorbs the essence of ancient Chinese tradition. A stitch,
a plain brocade, It has achieved the ultimate beauty of China. It has become the
founder of Chinese Gaoding Museum-level collections. It has not only changed the
world's understanding of Chinese fashion, It also makes Chinese clothing go to
the world. Since then, advanced customization is no longer exclusive to the
West. Every Chinese girl can afford to wear Chinese wedding clothes. Whether it
is the Spring Festival Gala or the international stage, But Guo Pei still felt
that. These do not meet the most beautiful standards in her heart. She has been
looking for a dress that can withstand the passage of time and the change of
trends, and still be amazingly beautiful. Maybe it's doomed in the dark. A
mother-in-law from Hong Kong let Guo Pei find the answer. Her mother-in-law came
to her with a traditional Chinese wedding dress to modify. "This is the Chaozhou
embroidered wedding dress I wore more than 50 years ago." Now, I hope my
daughter-in-law can wear this wedding dress. From ancient times to the present,
Wedding dress is the most important dress in every girl's life. It must be
tailored and hand-sewn to show its preciousness and uniqueness. It is the best
blessing for parents to give their daughters when they get married. Their
deepest love, reluctance and wishes for their daughter were all gathered in the
wedding dress. And hope that this blessing and expectation can be passed on and
become eternal. On her mother-in-law, Guo Pei saw: A wedding dress, with
blessings, has gone through three generations. This gave Guo Pei inspiration.
From that day on, Guo Pei found the most beautiful clothes in his heart: Chinese
traditional wedding dress. In Rose Square, Guo Pei has a requirement for the
embroidery workers who make "Chinese wedding clothes": If you are in a bad mood
today, please don't move your needle and thread on the wedding dress, because
your mood will certainly affect the wedding dress. The person who makes the
wedding dress must have a good mood and a peaceful state of mind. Needle and
thread, closely sewn are all blessings to the bride. In Rose Square, Guo Pei has
a requirement for the embroidery workers who make "Chinese wedding clothes": If
you are in a bad mood today, please don't move your needle and thread on the
wedding dress, because your mood will certainly affect the wedding dress. The
person who makes the wedding dress must have a good mood and a peaceful state of
mind. Needle and thread, closely sewn are all blessings to the bride. In fact,
in recent years, many stars'wedding clothes have been designed by Guo Pei. From
drawing design, plate making to accessories matching, pattern combination to
fabric selection and manual sewing, it has been widely used. She is very strict
in every step and every detail. Because of the exquisite materials used in
traditional Chinese wedding clothes, In addition, it is all hand-embroidered.
Often time consuming, Sometimes hundreds of workers, for a few months, Only one
wedding dress can be completed. But each one is unique. Each piece is the
painstaking effort of Guo Pei and the 300 craftsmen of Rose Square. Liu Shishi's
colorful gold thread embroidery with dragon and phoenix patterns took 7412
hours; Wu Qilong's golden dragon embroidered silk wedding dress took 640 hours.
(The baby's wedding dress took 798.1 hours.) Chen Yanxi's orange phoenix dress
took 1880 hours. It took Chen Xiao 3,985 hours to get the Purple and Gold Robe.)
Perhaps some people will say: Only rich people can afford to wear her clothes.
She was worried that her Chinese wedding dress would also take a high-set route.
But in fact, her biggest dream is, So that every girl can wear Chinese wedding
clothes. Guo Pei said: "My Gaoding can not be commercialized, it is the purest
kingdom I left to myself, but the wedding clothes must go to business.". Because
my wish is that every Chinese girl can afford to wear Chinese wedding clothes in
the future. Guo Pei said: "My Gaoding can not be commercialized, it is the
purest kingdom I left to myself, but the wedding clothes must go to business.".
Because my wish is that every Chinese girl can afford to wear Chinese wedding
clothes in the future. For this reason, Guo Pei runs schools, factories,
embroidery classes and trains craftsmen. The design is newer and more beautiful.
This is just to minimize the cost of each wedding dress. Now, her wedding dress
has been reduced from more than 100,000 yuan to 20,000 yuan a set. This is her
most sincere wish to every Chinese bride. Wen/Peng Jun Source: To Ingenuity
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